Port Dalhousie

Port Dalhousie sits on Lake Ontario near St Catherine’s, Ontario. It’s a gorgeous place with a beautiful beach, marina and waterfront area that boasts not one, but two, lighthouses. It also has a carousel with a calliope!

  

We visited fairly late in the afternoon, so the carousel was closed, but we walked along the pier in golden autumn sunshine and watched the sailboats, fishermen in small boats, and windsurfers enjoying the beautiful weather. 

   
 
My first impression walking along the pier was that the waterway and marina reminded me a lot of Port Fairy in Victoria, Australia, not far from Warrnambool, where I work. It’s another very pretty spot with a marina on the moth of the Moyne River that I have blogged about before

After walking along the pier, we sat on the beach and had the most Canadian of sandwiches: crusty white bread, old cheddar and Montreal smoked beef with mustard. Those sandwiches were incredibly good.

 
Our picnic was also attended by a lone seagull and a very attentive wasp. Thankfully, we did not provide any food for either one of them. 

Having just finished winter in south-eastern Australia, this was my first opportunity to enjoy time on a beach. It felt so good to get my bare feet in the warm sand and squidge it between my toes.  That’s one of the things I love about summer afternoons, even though I don’t really like hot weather. Yesterday’s 23C was just perfect for a beach picnic. 

Driving out, we passed some lovely pubs and shops that I would love to go and visit sometime. A very old brick building serves as a coffee house that looked incredibly inviting. 

I am already thinking that I’m going to have to make another trip to Canada. 

Damn. That’s just heartbreaking. 

Toronto Zoo. 

Toronto Zoo is a wonderful place. I have really enjoyed both my visits there. Both times, I completely skipped the Australian section because I have most of those animals living in the wild around where I live, and I’ve seen them in Australian zoos and wildlife parks, too. 

I always try to visit a zoo if I have the opportunity. I love zoos for the diversity of animals they host, and for the breeding and conservation programs they maintain in order to protect and regenerate animals around the world. It’s always fun to see animals that I would not ever have the chance to without travelling internationally and going on some kind of wildlife safari which, to be honest, is a lot more work and far more expense than I can manage. 

My previous visit to Toronto Zoo was on a -2C day in April. 2014. In addition to the cold, it was raining on and off. We got cold and wet, and my companions were very nice about not complaining because they knew how much I wanted to see some Canadiam animals that I had only see in books or on the Internet. I think that this goes very close to provifing a real-life definition of true friendship. 

Yesterday was sunny with blue skies and a light breeze, with an expected top of 23C. Perfect zoo weather.  

We set off on our adventure with zoo map in hand and discussing where we would go first. We visited the monkeys of Indo-Malaya, the Sumatran tigers, and the wild beasts of Africa – the lazy hippo, the equally lazy rhinos, the giraffes, cheetahs, wildebeests, and lions. I had seen all of these before, but that did not dampen my enjoyment of these beautiful creatures. 

While we were watching the rhinos, we were surprised to see a very Canadian creature running around in the enclosure. It looked like a beaver but had a longer, furry tail rather than the flat, broad tail of a beaver. We had no idea what it was, but conferring between our photos and Google, we came to the conclusion that it was a marmot. It was exciting to see another Canadian animal that I had not even considered putting on my bucket list, and to get some photos of it, so that was a bit of a bonus. 

Then we got to the Canadian section. This is the part of the zoo that I was most excited about. Ironically, this is also the section with the steepest, most brutal hill in any zoo, anywhere on earth. I don’t know whose idea it was to make people go up and down this hill without any assistance,  but even the fit people were slowing down and panting a little. You can imagine someone with a walker or a cane struggling back up the hill, wondering who they could bribe to carry them or give them a ride. A sign at the top does say that it’s a steep hill which is not recommended for wheelchairs or strollers. No kidding, Sherlock. 

Regardless, Sean and I proceeded down the hill. We’ve been down and up it before, so we knew what we were in for. The same is probably not true of the lovely young lady we saw walking down the hill in stupidly high-heeled wedge sandals, or another in high-heeled boots. Try as I did, I couldn’t muster any sympathy for them. I was just glad I had opted to wear that most iconic Australian footwear: a pair of thongs. (That’s “flip-flops” for my American and Canadian readers. Don’t be naughty.)

Despite the climb required in order to return to civilisation, the Canadian section is totally worth it. Most of these animals, with the exception of the moose, the bald eagles, and one bear who had just woken after a 16 week long nap but stayed right at the back of the enclosure, were busy hibernating last time I was here. Today I met the lynx, the cougar, the raccoons and the grizzly bears for the first time, and reacquainted myself with the others. Most of them posed for photos, but there was one bald eagle who insisted on burying his head under his wing just as I took a picture, every single time. A brave little chipmunk darted through the bottom of the eagles’ enclosure, and then I was glad that the eagle was busy preening his wingpits, or whatever. I do love chipmunks. 

  

My favourites of the day were the grizzly bears. They are such powerful, strong beasts despite their fuzzy-wuzzy appearance. They are amazing. 

  

I could have watched the bears for hours, but then we would have seen even less of the rest of the zoo before we were unceremoniously evicted just after 4.30pm because the zoo had closed. 

Who the hell closes a zoo at 4.30pm on a beautiful sunny day when there are still people in there who have paid almost $30 each plus parking to get in? It may well have been “the first day of fall” but the sign at the entrance still clearly said it closed at 6.30pm because Jenn and I both checked on our way in. Boooo.

I didn’t get to see the otters, the beavers or the polar bears, even though we were right near their enclosures. I saw the polar bears last time, of which I am very glad, but I sure don’t have much luck concerning the otters or the beavers. 

Maybe next time I will do the zoo backwards and start with them, just to make sure. 

In the wild.

As we were driving to Toronto Zoo, we saw a deer in the wild, eating flowers on the side of the road. 

There were no antlers, so I assume it was a doe. She looked up from her feast, saw the car, and bolted into the grasslands further from the road. She moved with incredible speed, yet her movements were fluid and graceful.

There was no time to take a photo, but I was very excited to have seen this magnificent creature in her own environment. I like to think of her out there, in the wild, enjoying the delicious flowers that grow by country roadsides. 

What an extraordinary, unforgettable moment. 

Niagara Falls: Canada v America. 

When. I posted some of my pictures from the Clifton Hill entertainment area near Niagara Falls, Ontario, one of my American relatives posted a response saying that he really appreciated the American decision to make the area surrounding the falls a national park so that the area would not become commercialised, as the Canadian side of the falls had done. 

I agreed with him. It’s lovely that there is parkland surrounding the falls area, and that people are encouraged to enjoy the natural beauty of the falls. There is a small wooded area where one cat watch the squirrels and chipmunks play, and monuments to various historical events and figures that are significant to the area. It’s really very nice indeed. 

On reflection, though, the two sides are not so different. On both sides, people can enjoy the scenery without directly encountering any kind of commercialism. There is parkland for sitting, having a picnic, or just taking some time out. On both sides, without walking too far, people can find a gift shop, a casino, and various other opportunities for dining and retail therapy. Both casinos and their advertising are quite visible from the falls. Both sides have a Hard Rock Cafe, and I have visited and eaten in each of them. Both are excellent. Both sides run a cruise on the river that takes people right up close to the falls to witness their power and grandeur face to face. Both sides are fantastic, and I encourage everyone to visit both so that their experience of Niagara Falls is complete. 

 Clifton Hill is actually several blocks’ walk from the falls themselves, and doesn’t overwhelm one’s perception of Niagara Falls as one of the world’s natural wonders at all. You can visit Niagara Falls, CA, without going anywhere near there. There is lots of fun to be had at Clifton Hill if one is so inclined, and it’s also possible to enjoy the sights and sounds of the area without spending any extra money. Yes, it’s commercialised to a greater degree than the area surrounding the falls in New York State, but there is commercialism on both sides. 

When it all boils down about which “side” is better, my decision isn’t based on opportunities for dining, gambling or any other entertainment. It’s quite simple, really. The view from the American side is impressive, but nowhere near as stunning as it is on the Canadian side. Even the American side of the falls looks better from Canada.  

 

  

I declare Canada the winner, eh. 

Niagara Falls.

Niagara Falls is nothing short of amazing. Powerful, inspiring and breathtakingly beautiful, this is one place that stole a piece of my heart the moment I set foot here eighteen months ago. 

Then, it was at the tail end of winter. There was snow on the ground and parts of the cascades were frozen. There were icebergs in the river. The purity of the glistening whiteness only added to the majesty of the falls. 

  
This time, it’s early autumn and the trees are just beginning to try on the fashionable shades of the season, although the leaves are still mostly green. A blue sky, cheerful sunshine and 24C made for a magnificent day for visiting the falls. 

  
It’s not easy to even get close to describing the falls in words. There is a constant rumble of water tumbling over the cliffs, while a plume of mist rises into the sky from the base of the Horseshoe Falls, the name given to the Canadian side of the falls. 

There are cruises which depart from either side of the falls. The American one is named Maid of the Mist, while the Canadian is named Hornblower. The cruises don’t run in the winter, so it wasn’t an option to experience one last time I was here. This time, though, I was very keen to experience the falls up close and personal, so to speak. 

I donned my complimentary rain poncho and boarded the boat with my friends Sean and Jenn. In the interests of looking all mature and sensible. I said I was excited; internally, though, I was squealing like a six year old on a roller coaster. We set off, and I have a vague suspicion that some of those excited squeals may have escaped as we got nearer to the falls. 

  
What a mind-blowing experience. The power of the water, the tingling coolness of the mist, the overwhelming humility of realising how big those falls are and how small I am, and the joy of being so close to something so magnificent all combined to be almost overwhelming in the most incredibly pleasant of ways.  

 
Later in the day, as we stood on a balcony just above the top of the Horseshoe Falls, I reflected on my love for this place and the exhilaration of the sheer joy that I feel here. I can’t explain it, but both emotions are very real. 

  
This is truly an experience and a day I will never forget.  Niagara Falls, I love you. 

 

Detroit.

This is my second visit to Detroit. 

On both occasions, I have had a wonderful visit and met some delightful people.  Everyone is so nice and welcoming here and, apparently, Australian accents are sexy. I’m good with that.

I honestly don’t know why TV shows and movies are so committed to portraying Detroit as such a bad place. Like any city, it has its poorer areas, and you can see a number of abandoned buildings and places that have slid gradually into dereliction. That’s not really a fair reflection of what Detroit is, though.

Detroit is a lively city. Downtown has some great restaurants and bars, a beautiful river walk by the Grand River, and streets lined by trees and gardens alongside the city buildings and construction sites. It’s a city which has obviously had its struggles, but it has fought its way back and is doing a fabulous job of reinventing itself as a 21st century city. 

Please don’t believe everything Hollywood or the television industry tells you, about Detroit or anywhere else. There are good people and bad people anywhere you go. I’ve been very pleasantly surprised by how nice this city and its people are. 

Melba Gully.

Driving through the Otway Ranges from Princetown to Cape Otway, the road snakes through lofty forests of mountain ash, often lined with tree ferns and vines.  In more than one place there is old growth forest on one side of the road and views of the Southern Ocean on the other. Pine plantations dot the landscape, sometimes prim and green, sometimes cut and messy.

We took an “unscheduled detour” down a dirt road that led to one of the plantation logging sites. The bush hugs the side of the road even more closely, enormous trees towering overhead. I have no idea how those enormous log trucks negotiate those tight bends on a narrow road, but the signs that warn one to “proceed with caution” should not be taken lightly.

As we took advantage of a clearing to turn around and head back to the main road, we saw a mob of kangaroos in their natural environment. There was a big male in the group who would have easily stood six feet tall. I think he is the biggest kangaroo I remember ever having seen.

We headed further east to our destination for the evening: Melba Gully.

Melba Gully is tucked into the Otway bushscape not far from Lavers Hill.  It offers beautiful scenery and some well-maintained tracks for walking.   During the day it is magnificent, but as the sun drops behind the forest the gums and ferns take on an other-worldly quality and one’s other senses become more alert. The chatter of the birds and the gurgle of the Johanna River at the bottom of the gully become more prominent. The smell of the eucalypts and the damp forest floor is refreshing  and clean.

At the end of the track is a section of boardwalk which keeps visitors on the track and out of the surrounding forest. All along this section of the walkway, glow worms twinkle like fairy lights. It’s a bit like looking at the stars in the night sky except that these tiny creatures are embedded in the bank about a meter away from where you stand.

It’s a beautiful, serene place to enjoy a little of nature’s magic.

If you ever have the chance to visit, wear good shoes for walking and take a torch so you can find your way back up the track in the dark.

Port Fairy.

The weather today was perfect  for a visit to Port Fairy, a beautiful little town on the south-western coast of Victoria, Australia. The sun was shining, there was a very slight breeze, and it was a glorious 19 degrees Celsius.

I walked slowly along the boardwalk which extends along the bank of the Moyne River, where the fishing boats moor. The water sparkled, lapping against the banks and the boats as we walked and enjoyed the scenery. Boats bobbed.  Seagulls hovered and swooped. Fishermen tended to their boats and chatted with people as they passed by. Two teenagers enjoyed the sunshine, sitting on the side of the boardwalk and dangling their feet over the water, holding hands and chatting happily.

I made my way to the main street of town, where small shops offer their wares, cafes invite visitors to enjoy coffee, cake or ice-cream, and everything has a rustic feel to it. There are no department stores or fast food chains here.  The cafes sell food that is made on the premises. There are two bookshops – I believe that this is always a very good recommendation for any town. Other shops sell handcrafted gifts, boutique clothing or old-fashioned sweets. The supermarket still has staff that will carry your bags to your car for you.

Whenever I visit Port Fairy, I visit Rebecca’s Cafe. The freshly baked cakes and slices are mouth-wateringly good, and their thickshakes are incredible. The coffee here is also excellent. However, those aren’t the only reasons I visit here. I visited here shortly after the passing of my beautiful friend, Rebecca. She wasn’t connected with the cafe or the town in any way, except by sharing the name, but it occurred to me then that she would have loved the place, too, and the connection has stayed with me ever since.

Many of the buildings and houses in Port Fairy date back to the early years of the settlement that was originally named Belfast by its strongly Irish population. They add to the strongly reminiscent sense of days-gone-by that characterises the township. It may seem odd that a place can be rather old-fashioned and quite up-to-date at the same time, but this beautiful town manages to achieve that balance very nicely.

Moyne River, Port Fairy, Victoria.

Moyne River, Port Fairy, Victoria.
Photograph is copyrighted by the author of this blog.

Echuca, Victoria

Echuca sits on the Murray River which forms the natural border between Victoria and New South Wales. In its heyday, it was the busiest port in Australia, shipping wool, cotton, timber, wheat and supplies all over the inland regions of three states, until rail took over as the main form of transporting goods because it was faster and more flexible in terms of routes and destinations.

Now, a visit to the Port of Echuca is generally for the purposes of tourism and recreation.

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The river has been known to flood to quite epic heights in the past. The markers on these trees give some indication.

 

The Clydesdales are always a highlight for me. I love these gentle giants, and they’re so photogenic!

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Houseboat holidays are enormously popular here. It’s a great way to explore the river and leave the rest of the world behind.

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